Stop dosing and feeding first — you can't diagnose a tank you're still changing. Then check equipment that fails silently (heater, auto top-off, pumps), test salinity, temperature, alkalinity, and ammonia, and ask what changed in the last two weeks. Most crashes trace back to a recent change.
When a reef crashes, the instinct is to do everything at once. That instinct is usually what finishes the tank. Slow down and work in order.
Pause dosing, new additives, and feeding for now. You can't diagnose a system you're still changing.
Test salinity, temperature, alkalinity, and ammonia. Write the numbers down with the time.
New livestock, new rock, new salt brand, a cleaning session, a power outage, a new bulb schedule. Crashes almost always trace back to a change.
If something's clearly off, a water change helps only if the new water matches temperature and salinity. A mismatched water change is a second shock.
Someone who's seen this exact crash can often tell from your photos and test log in minutes whether you're looking at a salinity swing, an alk crash, or a pest problem. Forums give you ten conflicting answers over two days, and a crashing tank doesn't have two days.
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