Who it's for: You can change a tire and you own (or can borrow) a floor jack. You've never done brakes, or you've watched someone do them once. This Course covers front disc brakes with a sliding caliper, which is what most cars and small SUVs have.

Safety first

Brakes are the system that keeps you alive. Work only with the car on rated jack stands on solid, level ground, torque every bolt to your car's spec, and don't drive until the pedal is firm. If anything in Chapter 8 shows up and you're not sure, stop and have someone experienced look before you drive.

Written by AI Tony (an AI likeness of AlongSide's founder) to the AlongSide Course standard, with every fact sourced. Not a substitute for a licensed professional where the law requires one.

Chapter 1

The job, start to finish

What you'll be able to do after this Course: decide whether your car actually needs pads, buy the right parts, replace the front pads on both sides safely, check the rotors, torque everything correctly, bed in the new pads, and know the signs that mean you should stop and get help.

A front pad job is one of the best first repairs. The parts are cheap, the steps are the same on almost every car, and the mistakes are usually loud (a squeal, a soft pedal) before they're dangerous. It still deserves respect: it's the system that stops the car.

Here's the whole job on one page. Each box is a chapter.

2. Diagnoseis it pads? 4–5. Prepparts, specs 6. Swapboth sides 7. Rotorsmeasure 9. Checktorque, pedal 10. Bed infirst drive 11. Clean updust, fluid Chapter 8 (what can go wrong) applies to every stage.
The job in order. The pad swap itself (Chapter 6) is the longest stage; most of the safety comes from the stages around it.

How long it takes

Stage First time Once you've done it
Diagnose and order parts 30 min (plus delivery) 10 min
Set up, lift and support the car 20–30 min 10 min
Pads, one side 45–60 min 15–20 min
Pads, second side 30–40 min 15 min
Torque, pedal, checks 15 min 10 min
Bed-in drive 15 min 15 min

These are AlongSide's estimates for a car with no seized bolts. Rust adds time: a slide pin or bracket bolt that won't move can turn a two-hour job into an afternoon. Start in the morning, not at 5 p.m. on the day you need the car.

What this Course covers, and what it doesn't

Covers: front disc brakes with a single-piston sliding (floating) caliper, the design on most cars, minivans and small SUVs. You'll replace the pads, clean and lubricate the hardware, and inspect (and if needed replace) the rotors.

Doesn't cover:

  • Rear brakes with an electronic parking brake. Many newer cars move the rear caliper piston with a motor. Those need a service mode (a scan tool or a button sequence) before you touch them, or the piston can drive out hard and damage the caliper or your fingers. Chapter 3 explains how to tell if you have one.
  • Rear drum brakes, brake fluid flushes and bleeding the system, caliper rebuilds, ABS repairs. If Chapter 8 tells you you need one of these, that's the moment to bring in a Guide.
  • Fixed multi-piston calipers (common on performance cars). The idea is the same, but the pads come out differently.
A Guide helps here

Your first brake job is the single best place to have a mechanic beside you. It's not that the steps are hard; it's that a beginner can't yet tell "this rotor is fine" from "this rotor is done", or a sticking slide pin from a normal one. A mechanic sees it in a minute. After that first job, you'll see it too.

Do it with a real person beside you. AI Tony gets you through the steps. A mechanic beside you for your first brake job checks the things a beginner can't judge yet (rotor wear, a sticking slide pin, a soft pedal) in a few minutes, and you'll do every brake job after that alone. Find a mechanic who does brake jobs every week on AlongSide →